Αναρρίχηση στην Ελλάδα, Κάλυμνος Αναρρίχηση, Διαδρομές αναρρίχησης

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Climbing-Greece

Climbing-Greece

Climbing's Olympic dream on hold

Sport climbing has failed to reach the final shortlist of sports being considered for the 2020 Olympics. The International Olympics Committee (IOC) has just announced that wrestling, baseball and squash have made it through to the final vote in September.

Rob Adie, BMC competitions officer said: "The BMC is incredibly disappointed to hear that Sport Climbing has not made the final 3 shortlist for the 2020 Olympic Games. This would have been a great opportunity for the sport worldwide but we'll have to wait another 4 years before we can put our case forward again. The BMC would like to thank the IFSC for all the hard work they put into the bid and we feel that, despite the outcome, the sport as a whole has benefited from the widened media exposure especially for those on Team GB and the future is definitely bright for British and International competition climbing."

Junior GB Climbing Team captain Molly Thompson-Smith said: "Even though we did not make it on this occasion it's still a big step forward for climbing as the public are now aware of what a great sport it is. I know that we will all continue to work hard and become better climbers but for now, onwards and upwards."

Earlier today, the International Federation of Sport Climbing (IFSC) presented the bid for sport climbing, along with the seven other shortlisted sports, at an IOC meeting in St Petersburg, Russia.

Official statement on the IOC website.

Read more about the voting at Inside the Games.

The news was announced as members of the GB boulding team head out to Toronto for the fifith Boulder World Cup of the season. Good luck guys!

source: https://www.thebmc.co.uk

Chris's Sharma own climbing gym opens (video)

Chris Sharma is opening his very own climbing gym! On June 15, Sender One, owned and designed by Sharma, will open in Santa Ana, California. The facility has more than 25,000 square feet of climbing surface and walls up to 50 feet tall, with a yoga studio, fitness center, and adjustable/movable walls.

 

Sharma, Daila Ojeda, Daniel Woods, Sierra Blair-Coyle, and more pro climbers will be at the grand opening event on June 15. Find out more at senderoneclimbing.com

 

Argyro Papathanasiou free climbs Spartan wall (8b) Kalymnos

After lot of hard routes in the past year, with her greatest testpieces being out of Greece, Argyro sends another 8b, which is her first in Greece.

 

Spending some time in Kalymnos she got on Spartan Wall (8b) without any expectations, but managed to free climb it!

 

Sick!!

Alex Megos sends Frankenjura's harderst route

German powerhouse Alexander Megos has repeatedCorona(5.15a), which is considered to be the hardest sport climb in Germany's Frankenjura. The route was first climbed by Markus Bock in 2006 and was unrepeated until Adam Ondra snatched the second ascent in 2009. Megos reportedly needed three days and 10 tries--which he spread out over six months--to send the route. It is also worth noting that Megos actually sentCoronatwice, climbing it a second time while a photographer snapped photos.

 

This is the 19-year-old's second 5.15a in less than a month, having recently made thefirst ascent ofClassified, also located in the Frankenjura. The progression of Alex Megos has shocked the climbing world lately. In late March, he accomplished theworld's first confirmed 5.14d onsight--climbingEstado Criticoin Siurana, Spain on his first try. Just a few days later, Megos climbed the nearbyLa Rambla(5.15a)on his second try. Megos started climbing at the age of six and then began a serious training program at age 13, which is guided by his coach Patrick Matros. In a recent article written by Matros, he explained that after Megos finished high school, they suggested that he should take a year off for "traveling and climbing around the world ..." but "Not with us, with some friends!" While visiting the U.S. for four months during his "year off", Megos managed to send over 100 routes graded 5.13b or harder, including an impressive flash ofPure Imagination(5.14c) in the Red River Gorge.

 

source: rockandice

Η Beth Rodden επιστρέφει

Η Beth Rodden καθιερώθηκε ως μια από τις καλύτερες αναρριχήτριες στον κόσμος. Ήταν η νεαρότερη γυναίκα που σκαρφάλωσε 5.14 (To Bolt or Not to Be in Smith Rock, Oregon) το 1998;

Έκανε την πρώτη ελεύθερη επανάληψη της Lurking Fear (5.13c) στο El Capitan το 2000 με τον πρώην άντρα της Tommy Caldwell και σκαρφάλωσε ελεύθερα την διαδρομή
Meltdown (5.14c), που θεωρείται στην Yosemite η σκληρώτερη διαδρομή και μια από τις δυσκολότερες παραδοσιακές διαδρομές σε όλη την Αμερική.

 

Το 2009 έσχισε τον χόνδρο στον δεξί της ώμο και αυτό οδήγησε σε συνεχής τραυματισμούς και πολλά χειρουργία με αρκετό καιρό αποχής από την αναρρίχηση. Δείτε στο βίντεο της ιστορία της ανάρωσης της.

 

Drew Ruana To Bolt or Not to Be 8b+

Ο 13 χρονος Drew Ruana έκανε ελεύθερα την διαδρομή To Bolt or Not to Be το πιο χαρακτηριστικό 8b+ στο Smith Rock, Oregon. Η διαδρομή ανοίχτηκε από τον J.B. Tribout το 1986 σαν το το πρώτο 8b+ στην Αμερική. Εντυπωσιακό είναι το γεγονός ότι η βαθμολογία έχει μείνει ανέπαφη για 27 χρόνια έχοντας γίνει ελεύθερα από αναρριχητές όπως Lynn Hill, Chris Sharma, Tommy Caldwell και πολλούς άλλους.

Αυτό ήταν το 5ο του 8b+

Πηγή: climbing.com

Another 8b in Spain from Argyrw

The route name is Pati Pati Mi (8b) in the sector El Pati in Siurana where is also the famous La Rampla(9a+).

Argyrw says about the route:

"It took me 4 days of tries. A beautiful line.. Classic Siurana style for 35 meters.. A very hard crux with a sequence of 4-5 moves on an insecure vertical wall! Before i manage to send the route i took a fall of about 12 meters"

Well done again Argyrw!

La Rambla 9a+ second go by Alex Megos

19 year old Alexander is about to take climbing into a new era and yesterday he did La Rambla 9a+ in Siurana on his second go. Dani Fuertes reports that apparently he fell just two moves from the top on his flash attempt getting beta from Felix Neumärker. Alexander also did A Muerte 9a, 2:Go.

It should be noted that this was the first 9a+ 2:Go and three days ago, he did the first 9a onsight in the world.

http://www.climbing-greece.com/news/news-and-events/the-first-9a-onsight-in-the-world

source: 8a.nu

The first 9a onsight in the world

The climber Alex Megos did today the first 9a onsight in the world!

The route is "Estado Critico" in Siurana Spain

You can read more in

http://sensepell.wordpress.com/2013/03/25/9a-onsight-alex-megos-estado-critico-siurana/

Delirium 8a από την Αργυρώ

Μια πολύ παραγωγική μέρα για την Αργυρώ

 

Στο πεδίο Χάος στην Αθήνα έκανε ελεύθερα τις διαδρομές

 

>Delirium 8a

> Tremoulo 7c+ (2nd go)

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