Nedousa

Climbing in Nedousa

Nedousa (ex Big Anastasova) is a village of Messinia in the area of Alagonia. A green mountain village in the heart of Mt Taygetos just 24 km away from Kalamata in a height of 570 meters. It is a place that the Greek fighter Nikitas Stamatelopoulos was born

Access

On the 17th km Kalamata – Sparta we turn left to the direction of Nedousa like the sign indicates and after 3km you are at the climbing crag. Just park and start belaying. The sector “TZERANI” is right above the street.

The SECTOR

With the financial support of EOS Kalamata’s and local climbers the first climbing crag of Messinia became a reality. Very good quality of rock with few loose rocks only on the “easy” routes where a helmet in necessary.

It is an area with great potential for further development. There is plenty of place to stay in a tent and climb all year if you want to. Now the sector has 25 routes with max height of 40 meters and grade range from 5c+ till 7c+.

More to come very soon!

NOTE : 70m rope is useful, 15 quickdraws and HELMET!

Climbing Routes Table:

ΠΕΔΙΟ ΤΖΕΡΑΝΗ

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Φαλλός7b30m
2.Δενθαλιάτης7c/7c+ (?)30m
3.Αστρίτης7c+ (?)30m
4.Υπερφίαλος6c+/7a30m
5.Δευτεροπέρασμα6b50m , 2 σχοινίες
6.Δευτεροπέρασμα extension6b30m
7.Πανσπερμία7a+20m
8.Λος Κολονετάριος7c/7c+30m
9.Ο τσαμπίκος6c20m
10.Ταυρομάχος7a+20m
12.Πρώτο Αίμα6b+/6c20m
14.Θείος Βάνιας   6c35m
15.Ζωντανό κακό              7c  40m
16.Χειμερία νάρκη7b40m
17.Zonas rojas7b40m
18.Μαγάρας6a+20m
19.Τραγόμορφος7c20m
20.τσικι τσικι το φυστικη-
21.αγερμός6b+20m
22.αροτρίαση7b10m
23.μουτζουροδευτέρα6c30m
24.Aρβανίτης6b+25m
25.κουτσαβίτης6a20m
26.Τσιμπούρτσα6a+35m
27.Λερναία Ύδρα6b35m
28.Πουρναροπηδήχτρα6a+35m
29.Ωρέλια6a+35m
30.Μανδρακούκος6b35m
31.Μεγάλη αναστάσοβα5c+35m
32.Σχοινοβγάλτης5b20m
33.Κρυψίνος6c+/7a30m
34.project6c35m
35.Το Πταίσμα6c+/7a30m
36.αθλητής7b20m
37.νικηταράς6c+20m
38.σαλτιμπάγκος7b20m

Η πλεύρη του Αι Στράτηγου

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Φωτοσβέστης8a+/8b (?)25m
2.Κύκλωπας8a (?)25m
3.Το κολύρι7a+/7b25m
4.Νευρική Ζέβρα7c+20m
5.Το Γένι του Σάτυρου8a25m
6.T-Rex8a25m
7.Οξείδωση7c+20m
8.Πλειόμορφο Αδζνωμα8a20m

Αι Στράτηγος

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Στο γαμο του καραγκιόζη?30m
2.Παλινωδία7b/7b+30m
3.Στην ζούλα7c15m
4.Τσίτσοβα8a (?)20m
5.No tactic no strategic8a (?)15m
6.Στη ζούλα7c15m

Κάστρο

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Τρυποκάρυδος7c+/8a30m
2.Στο φτερό7b30m

Βυθάγρα

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Να την πάρει το ποταμι?35m
2.Moai7c35m

Γελαδοσπηλιά ( Ήλιος μέχρι τις 16.00 και πρόσβαση 20 λεπτά )

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Σμέρνα8a+ (?)25m
2.Μυστήριο Τρένο8a25m
3.Τυφλή Βία7b25m
4.Tα βόδια του γυριόνη7a+25m
5.Αγριόχειρο7a25m
6.Μυθολογία7c30m
8.Λευτεριά στην Νεδούσα7b30m
9.Τεκίλα Σοκολάτα6b25m
10.Κόπρος του Αυγεία7a25m
11.Salta Cabron6b+25m

Οι ελιές του μάγκα - Του Κουλούρι η Ρίζα ( Ίσκιος μέχρι την 13:00 και μετά τις 18:00 )

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Status Epilepticus7a35m
2.Γκαντάρας6b25m
3.Νταβέλης6b+25m
4.Γιαγκουλας6a30m
5.Rimjob6c30m
6.Freaky Sequence7a+20m
7.The Grid6a25m
8.Princess Aurora5c+20m
9.Φέτα λαδορίγανη5b20m
10.Κουφός σχοινοσύντροφος5b20m
11.Κουφός σχοινοσύντροφος 2η σχοινιά6b+30m
12.Βάλτο πόδι σου και πάτα5b15m
13.Βάλτο πόδι σου και πάτα6b20m
14.Ελικόπριον7c35m
15.Ακαθόριστη Γραμμή7c30m
16.Alta gusto7b+30m
17.Σαπφώ6b20m
18.Μπαμπάνης6a+25m
19.Τσούγδω5c+15m
20.Technical Ecstacy8a (?)35m
21.Πλατυσβέρκους8a (?)35m
22.Scheiwnstaiger6c+15m
23.Scheiwnstaiger extension7b+30m
24.Vintage7a+15m
25.Vintage extension7c+35m
26.Κυανοπώγωνας6b+15m
27.Κυανοπώγωνας extension8a (?)30m
28.Ύσωπος8a+ (?)30m
29.Μυστικοπάθεια7a+20m
30.Μυστικοπάθεια extension7c+ (?)30m
31.Sex and Violence6c20m
32.Sex and Violence extension7c+ (?)30m
33.Απολίθωμα7c30m
34.Καρκινογένεση7c+ (?)35m

Κόκκινος Τοίχος ( Ίσκιος μετά τις 16:00 )

NumNameGradeDescription
1.Πολτεργκάιστ 1η σχοινιά7b 30m
2.Πολτεργκάιστ 2η σχοινιά7a+37m
3.Πολτεργκάιστ 3η σχοινιά7b+a1(8a?)20m
4.Πολτεργκάιστ 4η σχοινιά6c a1(8a?)15m

Credits: Γιώργος Μάλαμας, Σταύρος Ψυρρόπουλος http://www.eoskal.gr

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